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Meredith collects data to deliver the best content, services, and personalized digital ads.We partner with third party advertisers, who may use tracking technologies to collect information about your activity on sites and applications across devices, both on our sites and across the Internet.Di Spirito's menu that is not wonderful." food critic after Reichl, tells me that when Julia Child asked him to lunch, she insisted they go to Union Pacific to try Rocco's food.

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Dressed in all black, riding around NYC in a limo, Chodorow (who didn't respond to requests for comment on this story) is a natural money-man villain, and that's well before you discover he owns a purple pool table.

You can tell he and Rocco will have tension 10 minutes into the pilot, when he shoots down Rocco's suggestion that they look at a more intimate Downtown space in favor of a clusterfuck at 22nd and Broadway that was, as the Early aught celebrity cameos were common. Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert came to dinner, Bourdain wearing a thumb ring and going on a diatribe about the food not being enough, that a chef's second job was "to be a motherfucking hustler." But by the second season, the lighthearted, petty issues dissipated, and the show became a televised battle for control of the restaurant between Rocco and Chodorow. And naturally, when pitted against Chodorow, I wanted to cheer for Rocco.

He secured an internship in Paris in 1986 under Dominique Cécillon at Le Jardin des Cygnes inside the Hôtel Prince de Galles.

But a miscommunication forced him into essentially becoming a homeless line cook at another restaurant, sleeping in sous-sols and banc de metros and other shitty French places until he secured a student visa and Cécillon took him under his wing.

"The owners were trying to ride this Asian fusion wave," says Pete Wells, "and they got this wonder boy and, for a while, they didn't really know what to make of him." In her first review of the place, Ruth Reichl awarded him two stars.